The short answer
A wood wick is a thin strip of wood that burns across its top edge, giving a wide, soft flame and sometimes a gentle crackle. Pick the width from the wick maker’s chart for your exact wax and jar, trim it short before each burn, and brush off the ash before relighting. Cotton sizes do not convert to wood, so always burn test.
How a wood wick is different
A cotton wick is braided thread. It draws melted wax up through the fibers, and the flame burns the wax at the top. A wood wick is a flat strip of wood that sits in a clip. The wax climbs the wood, and the flame burns along the edge of the strip. That is why the flame looks wider and softer, and why a wood-wick candle often forms a broad melt pool.
The crackle people love comes from the wood itself. As it heats, substances inside turn to gas and expand, which snaps the fibers apart. How much it crackles depends on the wood, the wax and how the candle burns, so no maker can promise a certain sound.
| Cotton wick | Wood wick | |
|---|---|---|
| Flame | Narrower, steady | Wider and softer |
| Sizing | A series and number, such as ECO 8 | Width and thickness of the strip, such as .02" x .375" |
| Trim before each burn | About ¼ in (6 mm) | Shorter: about ⅛ to 3/16 in, per one wick maker |
| Upkeep | Trim; the wick may self-curl | Break off the ash tip before relighting |
| Sound | Quiet | Sometimes a soft crackle |
Wood wicks suit candles where the look and feel are part of the point. Cotton is simpler to keep steady. Neither is better in every case.
How to choose a wood wick
Wood-wick makers describe sizes by the strip’s thickness and width, not by a series number. Charts list a vessel in one column and a wick in the next. The chart is built from the maker’s own jars and the maker’s own waxes, and it says plainly that fragrance, dye, fragrance load and other additions change the best choice. Think of a chart cell as a first tester, not an answer.
Two things the charts show clearly:
- The wax matters. On one wick maker’s chart, the same vessel gets different wood wicks in different wax columns. The same jar width does not guarantee the same wick.
- Big jars may need two. Some charts suggest two wicks in larger vessels, written with a (2) in front of the wick.
General supplier advice lines up on these points: a wick that is too small will not heat the wax out to the glass and the candle tunnels; one that is too large can overheat the jar and soot. One supplier suggests small wicks under 3 inches across, medium or large for 3 to 3.5 inches, and extra-large or two wicks in wide jars. Treat that as a rough guide, because another maker’s sizes use different labels.
Wax type changes things too. Several suppliers say wood wicks work best in soy, coconut and blended waxes, and recommend extra testing in harder waxes. One says they are often more forgiving in paraffin and paraffin blends. These views overlap but do not match, so test in your own wax.
| Write this down before you test | Why it matters |
|---|---|
| Wick maker, product and exact size | Two wood wicks with the same name can differ |
| Wax product and jar (model or inside width) | A chart cell is tied to specific materials |
| Fragrance oil, load and dye | They change how well wax flows up the wood |
| Clip and placement | A tilted or loose wick can look like a bad wick size |
Trimming, lighting and relighting
- Trim to the length your wick maker gives. Two suppliers say about ⅛ to 3/16 inch; another says about ¼ inch. Follow the instructions that come with your wick.
- Light the wick across its full top edge, not just one corner. Hold the flame there for a moment so the whole edge catches.
- After you blow it out, let it cool. A small ash tip will have formed.
- Before the next burn, snap off the ash with your fingers or cut it with a wick trimmer, and trim to length again.
- Brush any crumbs of burnt wood out of the wax so nothing floats near the flame.
Why the short trim? A long wick makes it harder for wax to climb. The flame shrinks or goes out, even though a longer wick looks like it should burn bigger. Ash at the tip does the same thing.
Skip the oil soak
Factory wood wicks are made to draw wax on their own. One supplier says to prime by lighting a wick briefly rather than soaking it in oil. Check your own wick maker’s notes.
Wood wick keeps going out: causes and fixes
| What you see | Likely cause | What to try |
|---|---|---|
| Flame shrinks and dies | Wick too long, or ash on the tip | Trim to length; remove ash before relighting |
| Tunneling, wax stays on the walls | Wick too narrow for the jar | Try the next width up, or a second wick in a wide jar |
| Won’t stay lit, wax is oily | Too much fragrance or additive for the wick | Lower the load a little, or try a thicker wick |
| Flame drowns in a deep pool | Wick too small, or softer wax | Move up a size and retest |
| Soot, hot jar | Wick too large | Move down a size |
Wick makers agree that testing is the answer. Change one thing at a time and pour a new, labeled tester each time.
Burn test the finished candle
A burn test judges the wick over the whole life of the candle, not just the first hour. Supplier guidance for cotton wicks puts cycles at no more than four hours, with rest time to cool between them, and a melt pool that reaches the glass without running too deep. Use the same ideas for wood, but follow your wood-wick maker’s own preparation. See the full burn test guide.
- Pour a labeled tester with your real wax, fragrance and dye.
- Burn on a heat-resistant surface, in sight, away from drafts.
- Watch the flame, melt pool, soot and how hot the jar gets.
- Log each cycle in a testing log.
Stop a test that looks wrong
Never leave a burning candle unattended. A tall, roaring flame, a very hot or cracked jar, or flame climbing toward the glass is a reason to put it out and change something.
What the CandleEasy Wick Calculator covers
The Wick Calculator gives starting sizes for cotton wicks only, for waxes whose makers publish a wick chart. It does not size wood wicks. For wood, use the wick maker’s chart for your exact products, and keep your own test record.
Common questions
What size wood wick do I need for my jar?
Start with the wick maker’s chart for your exact wax and vessel. Jar width alone does not pick a wood wick, and the wax column on the chart often changes the answer.
Can I convert a CD or ECO size to wood?
No. Cotton series numbers and wood strip dimensions describe different products, and no general conversion exists.
Why does my wood wick keep going out?
Most often the wick is too long or has ash on the tip. Trim to length and remove the ash before each burn. If it still dies, the wick may be too small for the jar or the wax may carry too much fragrance.
How short should I trim a wood wick?
Suppliers differ: two say about ⅛ to 3/16 inch and another says about ¼ inch. Follow your wick maker’s directions.
Do wood wicks crackle in every wax?
Not always. The crackle depends on the wood, the wax and how the candle burns, so do not promise it.
Do I need to soak a wood wick in oil?
One supplier says no: factory wood wicks draw wax by themselves, and a brief light-and-extinguish primes them. Check your wick maker’s notes.
Sources
- Wooden Wick Sizing Chart — Makesy
- Is there a difference in burning a wooden wick vs a cotton wick — Makesy
- Cotton vs wood wick — Makesy
- How to Make Wooden Wick Candles — Lone Star Candle Supply
- Wooden Wicks Troubleshooting — Windy Point Soap
- Complete Candle Wick Guide — NorthWood Candle & Craft
- How To Conduct a Basic Burn Test — CandleScience
Updated October 5, 2026. These guides are starting points — always burn test your own candles.